This is our brand new bolt upgrade kit for the suspension on the KRX 1000 model Kawasaki Teryx. This kit is made to replace all of the improperly shanked bolts that Kawasaki used on the majority of their suspension components on these KRX 1000. Keep reading below for more information on the benefits of this kit and the issues with the OEM equipment!
This kit includes grade 10.9 M12 bolts for all of the following:
- All 8 shock bolts. Front / Rear Upper & Lower
- All 8 radius rod bolts. Chassis side & trailing arm side
- All 4 rear toe link bolts chassis and trailing arm side
- All 8 front control arm bolts (Upper & Lower).
- Both bolts where the trailing arm bolts to the chassis.
- Both Extra Long bolts for the rear knuckle to mount to the trailing arm
- Also included are 64 yellow zinc coated high carbon hardened washers & 32 all metal top locking stover nuts. (not nyloc nuts like other kits). As well as some single use red loctite packs!
The shank is too short on the majority of the OEM bolts on these Kawasaki's!! With that being said there are a few of the rear suspension bolts that do have a shank that is acceptable to use. But we did not want to just make a partial kit leaving you with mismatched hardware & different size head bolts & nuts. We also were unable to verify what grade of bolts they were. With ours we know what grade they are, what they are rated for, and the processes used to manufacture them to the tightest specs!
With suspension components you always want a bolts shank to go through both sides of the mounts for that suspension component. Thus putting all of the load onto the strongest part of the bolt which is the shank! (At the very least you want the shank of the bolt to start to enter the 2nd mounting tab. If it is 1/16" from going all the way through both mounting tabs but it is at least past the First part of the Second tab, then this will work just fine!)
By not having a bolts shank long enough to go all the way through both sides of the mounts it puts the load of your impacts, and the wear of the suspension components pivoting, onto the weakest part of the bolt, which is where the bolt changes from shank to threads! 90% of the time this is where a suspension bolt will break when it fails. Over time this will also start to wallow/oblong out the side of your mounts that has only threads and not shank through or at least going into it. Ultimately creating even more play than is originally there and the problems will only compound from there! Bent bolts, broken bolts, bent suspension components, the list goes on and on! You really do not want be stranded in the dunes after you ruined a trailing arm, or a lower control arm!! Just because the OEM bolts did not have the proper shank!
Don’t let this happen to your machine!
TORQUE M12 BOLTS TO 90 ft lbs
Bolts will be longer than stock, this is the only way to get the shank to be the correct length. Bolts can easily be trimmed down if you have a cutoff wheel and grinder.